West Coast Wilderness Trail
The West Coast Wilderness Trail goes between Greymouth and Ross, passing through Kumara and Hokitika via Lake Kaniere. It’s a grade 2-3 ride (easy to intermediate) with a total distance of 133km. Chris and I biked it in early January 2023.
The trail is marketed as a four-day ride but that would be too easy. The itinerary for the South Island version of our Tour Aotearoa trip covers the first three sections of the trail in a single day - so that’s what we decided to do, covering the final section (Hokitika to Ross) as a ‘there and back’ ride a few days later.
Greymouth to Hokitika
We were staying in Hokitika so got an early shuttle to the start of the trail in Greymouth. You can do the ride in either direction, and some tour companies recommending starting at the other end to benefit from the prevailing southerly wind. However, with a strong nor-easter in Greymouth that day, we were happy with our choice.
The trail starts by meandering around the port (so you can check out the fishing boats) before heading south on a well-formed track just behind the sand dunes. The track is well away from the main road initially and then runs alongside the road from Paroa, occasionally winding through small sections of native bush. Once over the Taramakau River (with great views of the river and sea from the bridge), the trail heads inland through native bush and farmland along the route of the old tramway to Kumara. This first section is an easy ride and only took us a few hours.
The next two sections take you up through native bush past reservoirs, water races and goldmining remnants to Cowboy Paradise (an accommodation provider and shooting range with a chequered history), and then back down the other side of the Arahura River past Lake Kaniere and on to Hokitika. We had cycled these sections before with our sons, taking two days for the ride. We really enjoyed it first time around, despite encountering heavy rain on the second day (once you’re wet, you’re wet, so you might as well enjoy the puddles). Coming back in 2023, we had high expectations and were looking forward to riding it in dry weather.
For the most part, we enjoyed the ride - especially riding through the bush and alongside reservoirs and water races, and the views of the Arahura River and the valley coming down from Cowboy Paradise. And it was pretty cool biking alongside huge dragonflies in the bush sections, and hearing cicadas (lots of cicadas) for the first time this summer.
Here's a few of the photos we (OK, mainly Chris) took.
Most of the trail is off-road and easy to ride. However, there are lengthy sections where you are sharing the road with cars, particularly on the third section back to Hokitika. We didn’t enjoy the dusty gravel road to Lake Kaniere (although resting by the lake was lovely). Neither were we keen on sharing the road on the busier sealed road that leads back to Hokitika, and were relieved when the trail veered back off-road on to a separate track through the bush.
I suspect our enthusiasm for the ride was tempered by it being a big day (105km with plenty of climbing) and, more importantly, by it being a stinking hot day. It was one of those days that warmed up quickly and we were cycling in the mid-high twenties for most of the day. (We later discovered that Greymouth had a record temperature of over 30 degrees that day.) We were pretty much exhausted by the time we got back to Hokitika. It was a timely reminder that not only do we need to prepare for long distances, we also need to be ready for long distances in hot weather.
Hokitika to Ross (and back)
After a rest day, we were back on our bikes for a slightly less arduous 77km ride to Ross and back. It was another warm day, but a gentle breeze helped keep the temperature down.
I really liked this ride and it’s probably the pick of the sections if you only have time to do one. While less challenging as a ride, there was enough variation to keep it interesting and only a few kilometres on (quiet) shared roads. We also hung out in Ross for a while and walked the water race track (see below), so it was a full day out.
We enjoyed riding in both directions, but if you’re only going one way, I’d suggest starting at Ross. From Ross, you take back roads out towards the coast and then it’s an easy ride along the old railway route to Ruatapu. There’s lots of native bush and glimpses of the Totara lagoon along the way.
From there, the trail follows the main road for a few kilometres (on a separate off-road track) and there’s a short cycle along a sealed road behind Lake Mahinapua, which passes by the West Coast Treetop Walkway. Not long after, it’s back into the bush along the route of the old Mahinapua Tramline. The track is narrower and bumpier here but a good ride and you can do a short walking detour down to Lake Mahinapua - a good spot for a jetplane break (the food of champions, according to Chris). There’s an even better, less bumpy bush section soon after; then it’s past the golf course and over the river back to Hokitika.
Some good walks
You can’t go to the West Coast without doing some bush walks. So, here are some short walks we liked:
Hokitika Gorge - the gorge has long been a top attraction in the Hokitika area for its striking turquoise water and native bush setting. The track was extended a few years ago so it’s now a 60 minute loop walk that includes two swingbridges. It gets busy so get there early.
Mananui Bush and Beach Walk - this track is close to Hokitika (less than ten minutes driving south) and the name says it all really. It’s a twenty minute return walk through native bush to the beach. Not good for swimming but you can walk for miles (and admire the views of the snow-capped mountains in the distance).
Lake Kaniere Walkway - the walkway runs along the western side of Lake Kaniere. It is actually three and a half hours one way and includes some challenging terrain. We made it a short walk by heading in from one end for about 40 minutes and then walking back again. We chose the more remote southern end, which gave us a good climb and allowed us to access a secluded wee beach with no-one else around. (You can also bike the walkway but with narrow, steep and winding sections and lots of big tree roots, why would you?)
Kahikatea Forest Walk - this one really is a short walk; it’s a 15 minute loop track through a stand of old kahikatea trees and other native bush, easily accessed from a picnic spot by Lake Kaniere.
Ross Water Race Walkway - a 60 minute loop track up the hill past old goldmining remnants and back through the cemetery (with fantastic views out to the coast). Access is via the Ross visitor centre, which also offers goldpanning.
Also worth considering are the Mahinapua Walkway (the old tramline) and the Kaniere Water Race Walkway, which we covered by cycle as part of the West Coast Wilderness Trail.